
As a descendant of Gullah/Geechee people, rice is a big part of my cultural make up. As a kid, I was raised on red rice, rice and chicken liver, “dirty rice” mingled with spices. My father, the main chef of the house, would always sing as he cooked “Just a little pork and beans and fatback.” I would squeal at his baritone voice, as he unknowingly provided me with an alternative vision of masculinity, a Black man who cooked and cleaned for his family.
Even now, when I cook rice I feel a strange sensation, an immediate cultural connection to my roots. Only later did I find out that rice made up a larger part of Black people’s historical experience in the Americas and Caribbean.
Black people were brought here in chains. Stolen from our land and cut off from our language, culture and religion, enslaved Africans were portrayed as talking tools without a past. However, Black people not only maintained there cultural continuity from Africa, but they were stolen precisely for having skills needed in the Caribbean and Americas. Carpentry, blacksmithing, and farming were some of the many skills that Africans brought to the new world. Indeed, to paraphrase Malcolm X, the smartest thing the white man did was to steal us.
Our influence on the cultural landscape is evident in food: yams, okra, and collard greens all have their roots on the African continent. Black folks on plantations maintained culinary autonomy through the planting of community gardens and sharing Sunday meals. However, rice cultivation in the Americas reveals the deep legacy of Black autonomy and resistance.
Rice production largely stems from the Senegambia region of West Africa. Africans have cultivated rice for only 3,500 and developed advanced irrigation systems. Europeans attempted to grow rice in the States largely failed until Africans were imported. Mainly settled in the swamps of the Sea Islands, Black people aided in the success of rice growth through the construction of irrigation canals. Rice production was largely women’s work
Since whites could not stand malaria and the physical demands of rice growing, these areas were largely self contained communities, with Black drivers or overseers. In certain Sea Island communities Blacks outnumbered whites 2 to 1.
Some of these rice growing communities became “maroons” area where runaway slaves or slave rebellions where launched. In 1739, the Stono River Rebellion(25 miles from Charleston, SC) began when the slave leader Jeme lead 80 troops seeking to break the slave system. They built alliances with Seminole Indians and sought to expand the battle to parts of Florida The rebellion was put down, but the effects where felt immediately as South Carolina stopped the importation of slaves for ten years.
To this day, rice still forms a cultural connector in South Carolina’s Gullah communities and a glue to our past.
Suggested Readings: Judith Carney, Black Rice: The African Origins of Rice Production in America
Peter Wood Black Majority: Negroes in Colonial South Carolina